you want to install grease fittings in the suspension linkages during
your overhaul, mark with a Sharpie where you want them to go
BEFORE you take off the shock and swing-arm. Mark
the locations for the grease fittings so that they don't interfere with anything.
Remember that you have to be able to get to them with a grease
of the swing-arm, linkage, pipe, sub-frame, rear wheel
assembly, seat, air-box, etc. In other words, strip the
entire rear half of the bike down, from the carburetor on
your bike is taken apart, we'll put it back together piece by
piece with modifications that cost next-to-nothing.
||Take a look at ALL
of the welds on the frame. Check for flaking paint at
the welds. This may indicate a crack. If it has been cracked a while,
you may see a small rust trail. If you find a crack, get it
fixed! These frames are mild steel, so
almost any welding method will work.
is a good time to tighten EVERY bolt on the main frame too, as
they're easy to get to while the rear is out of the way.
Important: Check the engine mount bolts and make sure they're tight.
The rear wheel assembly is next. Pull the axle spacers
out of the seals on both sides (mark them R and L) so ya can see the
outside of the bearings. Stick your finger in to the inner race of
the bearing and turn it. Feel for smooth turning with some
resistance. If it turns real easy, there's not enough grease in the
bearing, and if it's a little rough, it's junk. It should not
|Replacing Wheel Bearings
you have a bad bearing, find a punch that
is long enough and thin enough to go clear through the hub like
the axle does. There are two sealed bearings, one on each side of the
hub, and between them on the inside of the hub is a steel
"spreader" tube. Stick the punch in the opposite side
from the bearing you want to knock out and kind of pry the
spreader tube sideways a little so the punch can get a bite on the inner race of the bad bearing. Hit it
gently then move the spreader 90 degrees and tap some more. Work the
bearing out as straight as you can.
If you take the bad bearing to a bearing/belt/chain
dealer, there's a great chance you will be able to purchase a replacement
bearing for one-third to half the cost of what someone
will sell you an OEM part for. When you get the new one, just tap it
into the hub until it bottoms-out.
the bearings have been installed, put
the spacers back in on the proper sides and that's done. Don't
to put the spreader back in BEFORE you seat the last bearing.
the spokes for tightness. If you find
some that don't seem as tight as the others, tighten them up.
the brake shoes or pads at this time if needed.
is the time to install a new tire and tube if needed.
||Check the sprockets
for wear and tightness.
the swing-arm for cracks or damage and get it fixed if needed.
Now we're going to install the grease fittings in the links.
Go to an auto parts store and buy three grease fittings. They
come straight, 45° and 90°. Get the ones you need with a 1/4-28
thread. Don't forget to get a 1/4-28 tap (bottoming tap preferred) and
two drill bits in the size of #3 and 1/8".
Take the needle-bearings out of the link and clean
the grease out of it. Find the spot you marked at the
beginning and determine the best angle to drill that will go into the
space where the needle-bearings were located. Find the THICKEST part of
that will put the grease fitting close to where you marked. Drill the
first hole with
the 1/8" bit
through the casting AND the wall of the outer race. Now take the
#3 drill bit and drill through the same hole again BUT stop drilling when
the steel bearing race.
NOT drill this big hole through the race as you
did with the little one. Screw the tap into the casting and
work it in-and-out a little at a time un til you have threads.
tap hits the race it wont go any further be cause it wont fit
through the 1/8" hole in the bearing race.
Note: Go gently be cause if you
break the tap off in the hole you're going to have another job on your
hands! The tap is harder than a drill
bit and real hard to get out if it breaks.
Clean all the chips and
burrs out and take the burrs out of the race where the bearings
ride with a Dremel Moto tool and/or emery paper. Screw the
grease fitting in and your
done. Do this to all locations where you want grease
||Once all the above is done,
it's time to put it back together. Lightly grease all
bolts, axle, etc. and install the swing-arm, links, wheel, subframe, etc. on the bike.
you put the rear wheel assembly on and get ready to adjust the chain, find the
the swing-arm shaft and mark it with a center punch (dimple) on each
end. This is for measuring to the rear axle for wheel
alignment. You will find out how close the snail adjusters really are.
Sometimes they're rite on and sometimes they're not.
punch mark in the center of the rear axle on each end
also. I made an adjustable caliper for this but you
can use a tape measure or steel rule.
Adjust the chain as normal and
snug the axle nut. Now measure the distance from the center of the
swing-arm shaft to the rear wheel axle on both sides. This
measurement MUST be exactly the same, whether or not
the snail adjuster notches fit. If the snail adjuster notches don't fit when
you know the swing-arm shaft and axle are parallel, you can modify the snail
adjuster so it does fit. It's the little things
combined together that make a world of difference over-all! This
is just one of them and well worth the effort. I didn't tell
you to clean
and lube the chain as you already knew that anyway.
Once you have the back half of the bike done, we'll work our way forward.
put the air-box on just yet. Take the filter out and
service it as normal. Clean the air-box inside and out
real good. Where the boot attaches to the box, on the INSIDE of the
box, smear some clear
around the joint and smooth with a wet finger. Remove the excess
all you want is a final barrier to keep dust and water from
getting sucked in between
the joint of the box and the boot. (Some guys don't use silicone
as I described, but they do use grease. The choice is
next step is really important, as a lot of engines get
"dusted" from this source. (Some leak, some don't)
Grease the sealing lip of the air filter where it mates up
to the air-box and install the air filter. Now, in the end of the
boot that connects to the carburetor, smear a thin coat of
grease around the inside of the boot and coat the inside as far up
as you can reach with your finger. THIN coat! Real THIN!
catch the dust inside the boot before it gets sucked into the carburetor if any gets past the
air filter. Now install the air-box with a thin
coat of grease between the boot and the bell of the carburetor.
You are now done with the air-box, except where the side-panel mates to the
air-box - use grease there as well.
Next little "ditty" is sealing out dust and water from the
carburetor itself. After your done with this mod, the bike
will idle submerged in water clear up to the top of the air-box near the
bottom of the seat, so it's worth the effort!
Yank ALL the black rubber vent lines off the carburetor and
go to a store that sells R/C model airplanes and cars and buy 6' of
silicone (you can also use neoprene) fuel line made for gas R/C engines.
Install the new hoses on the carb. and rout them up
somewhere high on the frame and secure them. At least as high as the top of
the air-box. Now take some silicone and seal where the
throttle cable goes into the top of the carb. A little grease
the threads of the slide cap is good too. Install a fuel
and you're rockin' as far as the fuel system goes.
Next on the agenda is the crankcase breather tube. The large (1/2") tube coming from the top of the
cases has to go. It's the one with a cute little "T"
fitting with one tube going up and one tube going down. Remove it and
throw all this away! Buy a 3' piece of neoprene tubing and a small
hose clamp. Connect one end to the nipple on the engine with the
route it up to the air-box opening at the top. Install
a filter (available at an auto parts store) on the end and
just stick it into the top of the air-box. Let it dangle as long as its not near the
air filter. It could wear a hole in the air filter and that would NOT be good.
You may have to trim
some the foam off the air-box where the seat seals against it (if
your bike has foam) to allow the tube to fit between them without
collapsing. The filter on the end of this breather
tube is important because the air is being drawn into this
tube, as well as being forced out.
alternate to the mod above might be to install a bulkhead
fitting into the airbox so the breather tube just connects
to it as opposed to going all the way up to the top of the
air-box. Obviously the other end of the bulkhead
fitting needs to either have a short section of hose with a
filter or perhaps you can find a filter that attaches
directly to the bulkhead fitting.
With the tank off, clip each wire connector out of the circuit one at a
time and solder the wires back together using heat-shrink
tubing to seal the joint. Do not
solder wires that have spade-lug connectors on the
points where they plug into the coil, CDI box, etc. These are good
connections normally and can be tightened up easily. A
dab of silicone will seal them from moisture and vibration.
Once all the loose ends are taken care of,
bundle the wires back together with electrical tape and secure them to the
frame. NOTHING should
be allowed to vibrate.
remove the kill switch and take it apart. Make sure the
insulation on the wires going into the switch are not able to short against the
handlebar. Silicone works good for this.
Remove the timing/points cover and seal around
the gasket with grease. Install a new spark plug and use hi-temp
silicone to seal around the porcelain off the spark plug and the
plug wire boot. Seal where the stator wires come out of the
stator as well.
While were on the engine, remove the useless counter-shaft
sprocket foot guard, if equipped. This makes it easier to change
gearing and remove crap that gets stuck in
the chain and sprocket.
||Block the bike up like
you would if you were going to remove
the forks. Take the front wheel off and do the bearing
thing as you did on the rear wheel assembly. Again, check
the spokes and tighten, replace the brake shoes or pads, etc. just
as you did on the rear. Check EVERYTHING on the front wheel
assembly. When you put the wheel back on, take note of
the axle clamps. Some clamps have a direction
indicator cast into the part. Lightly grease the axle and install the
front wheel and axle on the forks. Insert the
axle into the fork leg snug but not tight. Now install the clamps with
nuts and screw them by hand until the clamp is a little closer at the bottom than it is at the top.
Adjust the nuts until everything is
seated and all have the same finger-torque. Now tighten the top
nuts with a wrench. This will pull the clamp parallel and the bottom nuts will be tight
as well. The reason for this
tightening procedure is to keep the axle from tightening itself
into the fork leg so tight that you cant get it loose on the trail with
we will grease the steering head bearings. Remove the
master cylinder, clutch perch, kill switch, etc. as you would if
you were changing the bars. Just let them dangle. Loosen the
top triple-tree clamp bolts, remove the nut that holds the top tree on the steering stem, and tap the top tree off
of the fork tubes and stem with a plastic hammer or piece of wood. Now you're
looking at two large nuts that kind of look like the ones on your shock that
set the spring tension. If ya have the right tool, then use it.
If you don't, then use a punch and hammer to loosen and remove these
nuts. The whole front-end will fall out of the steering head
until the tire hits the floor. The top bearing will be
sitting in its race along with a seal. You can just pick
them out. The bottom bearing and seal will be on the steering
stem and don't usually get removed because they require a press.
The stem doesn't have to come clear out of the head in order to
grease the lower bearing. Just leave it where its at
and pack the bearing with grease. "Packing" means forcing
the grease into the bearing, not just smearing it on.
||Repack the top bearing too.
Lift the front-end back up into the head
enough to get the top bearing, seal, and one nut on the stem.
Use a special tool or a large pair of pliers to tighten the
top nut. Make sure nothing is binding as you snug the nut down.
Turn the forks lock-to-lock a few times as you snug up the nut.
Now put the
front wheel back on the ground with the bikes weight on it. Loosen
the nut. Now just snug the nut back down. Not tight.
No torque, just snug. Thread the second nut on and as
you hold the first
nut with something so it doesn't turn, tighten the second nut down
against the first. This is a jam nut and must be tight.
Now you can put the top tree back on and tighten the last nut and
fork leg pinch-bolts.
is also a right way to put on handlebars. You're going install the bar
clamps just as you installed
the axle clamps. The reason for this is SAFETY. What were after
is bars that will rotate forward with
a big hit, but at the same time, not rotate backwards when you land heavy on them with your
hands. Mount the
bars and snug the bolts down with your fingers as you did with the axle
clamps. Make sure the bolt hole with the dimple is
facing forward. Now adjust the bolts so that the clamp gap is a
little closer at the rear than it is at the front.
Now, holding the bars
where you want them, tighten the two front bolts. The rear
bolts will be
tight, but not as tight as the front bolts.
you put the perch, master cylinder, etc. back on, snug them
up finger tight and adjust them to suit you. Then tighten them
up but not real tight, as need to rotate in a fall. This will help keep
you from braking levers in a fall.
Get a cable luber and use it!
Ride the bike and check EVERYTHING. Don't forget to pump up
the brakes before you ride.